All posts by Black-Rat

Quiz, Railways, Tangential Topics, Transport

Metro Memory

This is very trivial and tangential but it does relate to the City and Docklands and is rather fun, albeit a thief of time.

How does it work? It tests your memory or knowledge of London’s public transport.

You type in, one by one, every ‘metro’ station that you can remember. This means Underground, Overground, Docklands Light Railway and Elizabeth Line. Out of town stations such as Reading on the Lizzie Line are included (there’s a free one for you!).

Tramlink and National Rail stations are excluded unless they are metro stations as well.

A map will show which stations you’ve entered. You can move the map around to see the blanks and (maybe) remind you of stations that you have missed. The map is geographic instead of schematic and it’s interesting to see where stations are in relation to each other.

A counter will indicate what percentage of them you’ve so far managed to remember. There are over 500 in total.

Find the quiz at london.metro-memory.com – and don’t blame me if you get engrossed and forget to eat or pick up the children.

You can play it on your phone but laptop or PC is better as you get a better view of the map.

If you don’t finish in one go then you can carry on from where you left off another time. This applies even if you’ve closed your browser or restarted your computer – provided you’ve not cleared cookies in the meantime.

The game will, not unreasonably, ask for a donation from time to time. You can bypass this and carry on or bung in a few quid as the quiz would have involved quite a bit of work.

Aficionados of I’m Sorry I Haven’t A Clue will, of course, finish at Mornington Crescent.

Test your METRO MEMORY

1500s, Education, Friars and Friaries, Great Fire, Plague

Christ’s Hospital’s School

is one of the oldest boarding schools in England

In 1552, the young King Edward VI responded to an impassioned sermon on the needs of London’s poor, and summoned the preacher, the Bishop of London, to talk more about this pressing situation. It was suggested that Edward should write to the Lord Mayor of London, to set in motion charitable measures to help the poor.

Christ’s Hospital was consequently founded in the old buildings vacated by the Grey Friars in Newgate Street, London and provided food, clothing, lodging and learning for fatherless children and other poor men’s children. The children were not only cared for but prepared for future careers. Money for such reform was raised by the City of London. The Church, businesses and householders in London were asked for donations. Governors were elected to serve the school and in November 1552, Christ’s Hospital opened its doors to 380 pupils. Within a year, the number had increased to over 500.

Many children, including 100 of the first 380, were infants who were sent away to Ware, Hoddesdon (Herts) or Hertford to be looked after by nurses, who were paid a weekly allowance, and to attend local day schools. When they reached 10 they would return to London to be educated.

Girls were admitted from the beginning, and in 1563, when the first children’s register was compiled, there were 132 girls out of 396 children, although the proportion thereafter was usually smaller.

In London, the great majority of children were educated in the Writing School for a position in commerce or trade, leaving when aged 15. The few who stayed on beyond the age of 15 studied either in the Grammar School for University or, from its foundation in 1673, in the Royal Mathematical School (RMS) for service at sea. The RMS received its Royal Charter from Charles II, with Samuel Pepys & Sir Isaac Newton being influential figures in its early years.

CH lost 32 children in the Great Plague of 1665, but did not lose any children to the Great Fire in 1666, although most of the buildings were burned down. With only a few children able to return to the ruined buildings, many were sent out to be billeted in Hertfordshire. In 1682 a site in Hertford was acquired for a self-contained boarding school, which CH was to own for over 300 years.

Thanks to the great generosity of benefactors, the rebuilding of the school in London after the Great Fire was completed in 1705, with Sir Christopher Wren designing the South front as well as Christ Church, the parish church immediately outside the walls of CH, which the school used for its worship.  A second major rebuilding took place from 1793 to 1836, including a Grammar School completed in 1793, a new Great Hall in 1829, Grammar and Mathematical Schools in 1834 and the cloisters known as the Grecians Cloister in 1836. .

In 1902 all the boys from both the London and Hertford schools transferred to a new site in Horsham, and the school at Hertford became a girls-only school. In 1985 the Hertford site was closed and the girls transferred to Horsham, once again to form a co-educational school.

Today CH has 830 boarding pupils, with an equal number of boys and girls, and 70 day pupils.

1900s, Friars and Friaries, Sculpture

Two Crutched Friars

On Tower Hill, about 300 yards north-east of Fenchurch Street station, we find this piece of art nestling in the corner of a 1980s office block. It depicts a meeting of two monks or friars.

Created by sculptor Michael Black, it was installed here when the building was constructed in 1985 and is called “Two Crutched Friars”.

Black, who passed away in 2019, is best known for works in his native Oxford though he has one other piece in the City: a statue of the journalist Paul Reuter which you may find at the back of the Royal Exchange.

Black worked mainly with stone and was known to ply visitors with home made beer.

This work is inspired by the title characters from a book called “Narziss and Goldmund” by the Swiss author Hermann Hesse.

Narziss, on the right, holding a staff and a sack is a teacher.
Goldmund, on the left, with a parchment or scroll, is an artist and sculptor.

If you look above Goldmund, you’ll see that we are at the corner of a street called Crutched Friars.

From the 13th to the 16th century this was the site of an Augustinian Friary belonging to what was known as the Order of the Holy Cross.

Its members were called “crossed” or “crutched” friars because they carried staffs with a crucifix attached.

As mentioned, the piece is called Two Crutched Friars but this is a misnomer. The characters in Hesse’s novel have their story set in Germany and not the medieval City of London.

Let’s look at the statues in detail.

The robes are light brown granite, the same as that used for the walls of the building.

The heads, hands and feet achieve their grey colour from Bardiglio marble.

Scroll and staff are bronze, coated in black paint.

The scroll is said to contain a secret message – but you’ll need to bring a stepladder to find out!

1200s, Great Fire, Water, Wine

Great Conduit

Laid in 1245 this supplied water from springs near Tyburn to the west of the City (where Marble Arch now stands)

The main consumers were brewers, fishmongers and chefs but some private houses also purchased a supply. Households could fill up a bucket for free.

In 1270 when Edward 1 brought his wife, Eleanor of Castille, to London for the first time the Conduit ran, not with water, but wine for all to drink (red and white, reportedly).

The conduit was almost 3 miles long. It comprised pipes which were ten to twenty feet in length. These were made from tree trunks hollowed out with a 6” auger and then shaped at the end to dovetail into each other.

The conduit was lost to the Great Fire of 1666.

Food and Drink, Pubs

City Pubs

Live Music is great but pubs with that modern evil – piped music – are unlikely to get a mention. Sadly this pestilence destroys the atmosphere of many otherwise delightful establishments. If anybody can explain the upside of ones conversation getting drowned out by somebody else’s choice of music then I shall be curious to hear their thoughts.

Crosse Keys, 9 Gracechurch St, EC3V 0DR
8am to 11pm, Monday-Friday; 8:30am to 11pm Saturday; 9:30am to 9pm Sunday.
Spacious atmospheric Wetherspoons pub in a cavernous former banking hall.
There was a coaching inn nearby dating back to the 1500s – also called the Crosse Keys – where some of Shakespeare’s plays were performed.
It is possible that the name derived from the nearby church of St Peter Cornhill – crossed keys being the symbol of St Peter.
Bank or Monument underground.

Dirty Dick’s, Swedeland Court, 202 Bishopsgate, EC2M 4NR
11am to midnight, Monday-Saturday; noon to 11pm, Sunday
I will tolerate the mild piped music and admit this one. A quirky Young’s house with a curious history.
Liverpool Street underground or national rail.

‘Dirty Dick’ (the man himself) is mentioned on my Bishopsgate walk.

Rising Sun, 38 Cloth Fair, Barbican, EC1A 7JQ
Noon to 11pm every day.
A Sam Smiths house and a gem of a proper traditional pub overlooking the church of St Bartholomew the Great.
Barbican underground; Farringdon Elizabeth Line and national rail.

Seven Stars, 53 Carey St, WC2A 3QS
Noon to 11pm every day – Sunday closes at 10pm
Just outside the City but warrants a mention. Dates to 1602 and looks the part.
Chancery Lane underground

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BP
Noon to 11pm every day – Sunday closes at 10:30pm
A rambling Sam Smiths house dating to 1667. Past patrons include Charles Dickens, Christopher Wren, Samuel Johnson and Samuel Pepys.
Chancery Lane underground

Also see Docklands Pubs

1600s, 1700s, Architects, Churches, Freemasonry

Nicholas Hawksmoor

1661-1736

Hawksmoor was an architect who began to work for Christopher Wren at 1680. He helped Wren with several City churches including St Paul’s cathedral.

In 1711 he was commissioned to help build around 50 churches in Greater London. Within the City his only church was St Mary Woolnoth which was completed in 1724 . Other churches included St. George-in-the-East, Wapping (1729), Christ Church, Spitalfields (1729) and St. Anne in Limehouse (1730) where you may find a Pyramid in the churchyard.

Food and Drink, Pubs

Places to Eat (City)

These are pubs and restaurants known to Pudding Lane Tours and associated Guides and which we are happy to recommend.

Nearby underground or railway stations are indicated after the address, e.g. ‘(Bank)’.

Comptoir Libanaise, Broadgate Circle EC2M 2QS  (Liverpool Street)
Bustling Lebanese restaurant (can be noisy)
Monday, Saturday: 11am-11pm
Sunday: 11am-9pm
Capacity: 40
https://www.comptoirlibanais.com/restaurants/liverpool-street
0207 657 1973
info@comptoirlibanais.com

Counting House, 50 Cornhill, EC3V 3PD (Bank)
Capacious gastropub in an old banking hall, private dining room available
Tuesday-Friday: 8am to 10pm
Monday, Saturday: 8am-9pm
Sunday: 8am-4pm
Capacity: 150
https://www.the-counting-house.com
020 7283 7123
thecountinghouse@partners.collinsbookings.com


Dirty Dick’s, 202 Bishopsgate, EC2M 4NR (Liverpool Street)
Quirky pub with an interesting history, private dining room available
Monday-Saturday: 11am to 10pm
Sunday: noon-8pm
Capacity: 40
https://www.dirtydicks.co.uk
020 7283 5888
dirtydicks@youngs.co.uk

‘Dirty Dick’ (the man himself) is mentioned on my Bishopsgate walk.

Ferrari’s, 8 West Smithfield, EC1A 9JR (Barbican, Farringdon)
Traditional cafe by Smithfield Market. Also offers Malaysian dishes
7am-7pm Monday-Saturday, 8am-5pm Sunday.

George and Vulture, 3 Castle Court, EC3V 9DL (Bank)
Regular haunt of Charles Dickens whose descendants are customers today.
Monday-Tuesday: noon to 4pm
Wednesday-Friday: noon to 11pm
Closed at weekends
Capacity: 40
https://george-and-vulture.co.uk
020 7626 9710
info@george-and-vulture.co.uk

The George & Vulture is a stop on my City Essentials walk.

Libertine, 1a Royal Exchange, Cornhill, EC3V 3LL (Bank)
In the cellars beneath the historic Royal Exchange.
Monday-Saturday: noon to late
Sunday: noon-7pm
Capacity: 40
https://libertinelondon.co.uk/
0203 772 6610
hello@libertinelondon.co.uk


Sugarloaf, 65 Cannon St, EC4N 5AA (Bank, Cannon Street, Mansion House)
A favourite of City Guides. Good food selection and excellent service but limited space
Monday-Friday: 12 noon to 11pm
Saturday: noon-9pm
Sunday: noon-7pm
Capacity: 18
https://www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk/restaurants/london/thesugarloafcannonstreet
020 7248 8928
nicholsonssugarloaf@partners.collinsbookings.com

Williamsons, 1 Groveland Court EC4M 9EH (Mansion House, St Pauls)
Sister pub to the Sugarloaf
Tuesday-Friday: 12 noon to 10pm
Capacity: 45
https://www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk/restaurants/london/williamsonstaverngrovelandcourtlondon
020 7248 5750
williamsonstavern@nicholsonspubs.com

Whilst this list is periodically updated we cannot guarantee that everything is up to date. You should confirm details with the venue before visiting.

Neither Pudding Lane Tours nor the Black Rat blog accept any responsibility for any loss, damage, injury or disappointment arising from visiting any of the above venues.

Art, Churches, Food and Drink, Free, Museums, Paganism, Public Toilets, Viewpoints

Venues to Visit (City)

When you’ve finished one of my tours there are several places to visit within which I am not normally able to guide. These are listed geographically from west to east. Entry is free unless a price is stated.

Although I try to keep things up to date, prices and opening times may vary from those shown here. Please leave a comment if anything is no longer accurate.

DOCTOR JOHNSON’S HOUSE
17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE
Home of the compiler of the Great Dictionary Of The English Language
£4-£9. 11am-4pm Tuesday-Saturday. Booking not needed
www.drjohnsonshouse.org/visit.html
Chancery Lane underground

ST BRIDE’S
South side of Fleet Street at the eastern end behind the Old Bell pub, EC4Y 8AU
The Journalists’ Church with a museum in the crypt.
10am to 5pm daily (3.30pm on Saturday)
Blackfriars and St Paul’s underground. Blackfriars and City Thameslink national Rail

ST MARY ALDERMARY
Junction of Bow Lane and Cannon Street or Watling Street and Queen Victoria Street, EC4M 9BW
Best coffee venue in the City. A blitz survivor – check out the Wren ceiling.
7:30am to 4pm weekdays
Bank, Cannon Street, Mansion House underground. Cannon Street national rail.

GUILDHALL ART GALLERY
Basinghall St/Guildhall Yard EC2V 5AE
As well as the paintings you may visit the Roman Amphitheatre and also see the charter granted to the City by William the First.
10:30am to 4pm every day.
Bank underground

MITHRAEUM
12 Walbrook, London EC4N 8AA
The City’s only pagan temple.
10am-6pm Tuesday-Saturday; 12noon-5pm Sunday. Booking may be necessary but often not.
Bank, Cannon Street, Mansion House underground. Cannon Street national rail.

ST STEPHEN WALBROOK
39 Walbrook, London EC4N 8BN
A Wren masterpiece enhanced by Henry Moore.
10:30am to 3:30pm Monday-Friday
Bank, Cannon Street or Mansion House underground. Cannon Street national rail

ROYAL EXCHANGE
Cornhill/Threadneedle Street, EC3V 3LL
Sip a surprisingly reasonably priced coffee at Fortnum and Mason, enjoy the architecture, window shop for fabulous watches and jewellery at fabulous prices.
7:30am-10pm Monday-Friday
Bank or Cannon Street underground. Cannon Street national rail.

BANK OF ENGLAND MUSEUM
Bartholomew Lane, EC2R 8AH
10am-5pm Monday-Friday
Bank or Cannon Street underground. Cannon Street national rail

HORIZON 22
22 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AJ
Viewing platform atop the tallest building in the City.
Free but booking essential: horizon22.co.uk
10am-6pm daily (5pm Saturday, 4pm Sunday)
Bank or Monument Underground; Cannon Street, Fenchurch Street or Liverpool Street national rail

LEADENHALL MARKET
Gracechurch St, EC3V 1LT
Horace Jones’ wonderful 1880s building.
Open 24 hours.
Bank or Monument Underground; Fenchurch or Liverpool Street national rail

MONUMENT
Fish St Hill, EC3R 8AH
Climb to the top of Christopher Wren and Robert Hooke’s memorial to the Great Fire
£6.  9:30am-6pm daily; closed 1pm-2pm.
There may a bit of a wait as only a few people are allowed up at once. Access to the top is via a narrow spiral staircase which may not suit everybody.

themonument.org.uk/plan/buy-tickets

Monument Underground; Cannon Street or Fenchurch Street national rail

THE GARDEN AT 120
120 Fenchurch Street, EC3M 5BA
Good view of the City from the roof terrace and usually no need to queue.
Monday-Friday 10am-6:30pm; Saturday-Sunday 10am-5pm.
Tower Hill or Bank underground; Fenchurch Street national rail

ALL HALLOWS BY THE TOWER
Byward St, EC3R 5BJ
Filled with history including a Grinling Gibbons carving and a Saxon stone arch. There’s also a museum in the crypt.
10am-5pm every day
Tower Hill underground; Fenchurch Street national rail

 Free PUBLIC TOILETS may be found at All Hallows, the Art Gallery (though you need to go through Security), Mithraeum, Royal Exchange and St Mary Aldermary. For the church facilities it would be a courtesy to make a purchase from the café or leave something in the collection box.

1800s, Railways, Transport, Tunnels

Tower Subway

A little way north of the Uber boat station by the Tower Of London you might notice a small cylindrical building called the Hydraulic Tower,

Today it carries a water main, hence the name, but its heritage is rather different.

Quite possibly you have used the nearby Tower Hill underground station which is not far from the site of the old Tower Of London station which opened in 1882 as a terminus for the Metropolitan Railway.

Even this, though, was not the first railway on Tower Hill.

In 1870 the Tower Subway, a 2’6” narrow gauge railway, was built from Tower Hill under the Thames to Vine Lane off Tooley Street by London Bridge station. There was a single carriage which was pulled by cables connected to a static steam engine at each end. It proved unreliable and a passenger died in an accident with the lift.

In 1871 the railway was taken up and it became a pedestrian tunnel with a toll of a halfpenny. It attracted a million transits each year. A bit of maths: 480 halfpennies to the pound, divide by 52, works out at £40 per week which was not a bad bit of bunce in the late 1800s – equivalent to £4,700 in 2020.

In 1898 it went out of business because of the free crossing afforded by Tower Bridge which opened in 1894. Today it carries a water main and phone lines. You can, however, see the original entrance.

The tunnel was bored by pioneer engineer James Greathead using an adaptation of Marc Brunel’s tunnelling shield as used to build the Wapping Tunnel.

The Tower Subway features on my Tower Hill tour.